The hardest thing to applying blush is getting the right amount on. Time is wasted in taking off, erasing, or putting more blush on. And if your blush is going on streaky,it’s never the product’s fault. It’s usually in the type of application that is being used.
Guidelines: The only area that you can apply blush is from (going from the top down): at the arch of the eyebrow, around the temple, to the middle of the eye. Anywhere within this guideline works for blush.
Remember: Blush can really only go so far………some more guidelines to apply blush is:
- not beyond the arch of the eyebrow when going around your temple (it’ll make you look like you have a dirty forehead) If applied past these 3 guidelines, blush just looks ‘off’.
- not pass the middle of the eye – towards your nose (you’ll look sunburned, unless that’s the look you’re going for)
- not below the bottom of the nose (you’ll look cold)
Here are some more applications you can use to achieve different effects with blush. Think of blush as a way to highlight or bring attention to different features of the face. Here are some tricks you can do to help ‘emphasize’ a specific feature:
1. To emphasize bone structure……….
- Apply blush or contour underneath the cheekbone. Not sure where this is? Try the ’2 finger’ technique.
With your first two fingers, (forefinger and index) line your forefinger above your ear, the index finger below your ear (if you cross your hand across your face……it’ll be easier!). Make sure the bottom finger is lined horizontally across the face……………..By applying your contour between the two fingers, you’ll always get it underneath the cheekbone.
Want stronger cheekbones? After applying underneath the cheekbone, apply some more just in the temple. Keep the top of the cheekbone blush-free. This illusion of depth, highlight and then depth again will make the cheekbone stronger. The illusion? By applying blush underneath the cheekbones, you make your face appear wider, and you create more attention to your hair. You’re actually drawing a line that leads the eye directly to your hairstyle. Great for emphasizing an evening look, or for a bridal look.
This also works when applying blush on the apples of the cheeks and then applying the color strongly back towards the ear. You’ll still get the same ‘optical illusion’ line effect. Just note, you’ll also be emphasizing your nose. (The line goes both ways.)
Smile! And apply on the apples of your cheeks. Blend back, but don’t go any
further than the outside corner of the eye, or the actual apple of the cheek. By just keeping color on the front of the cheeks, you give the illusion of clearer skin, and you will also emphasize your eyes.
3. Why make your eyes stand out?
Every magazine editor will tell you that if they can get you to “look” at a
cover at the model’s eyes, you’ll pretty much buy it. Why? Eye contact is a very powerful tool.
4. Here’s a great optical illusion.
Apply your blush starting near the outside corner of the eye, then go up to the temple, and then up on the forehead, as far as the arch of the eyebrow. You’re almost drawing a letter “C” around your eye. What this does is give the illusion of a half circle. What our eye tries to do is complete the circle by continuing around your eye to be exact. You create a stronger focus on the eye, and more eye contact.
Types of blush:
The type of blush used offers it’s own techniques and pros and cons. Here are tips and tricks when applying.
Powder form, either loose or pressed. The shade on looks about 2-3 shades lighter than you see in the pan. Loose powder looks more intense on than you think it will
Use a blush brush that fits the size of the apple of your cheek when you smile. You’ll get the right amount every time without the color going too far down on the face. Sable is the best for the softest feel, or a mixed hair brush. Make sure the bristles are cut round for a softer application. If the bristles are cut straight across, the blush is more likely to streak.
Techniques: Power blush is all in the technique.
Do you have a hole in the middle of you pressed blush? You’re wasting too much product, and you’re probably toning down your blush after you’ve put it on. Or maybe the color is just not going on enough.
Quick Trick: When buying a colored powder, rub some on the tip of your finger. Then lightly rub it off. Does it disappear instantly? Then the color is not going to last very long on, or you’ll have a hard time getting color to go on. It’ll fade in about 2-3 hours. Does it leave a slight stain? It’s staying power is about 4-5 hours. Does it have a silky touch? It’ll last the longest, since the oils (mineral or otherwise) is what keeps the product on longer, adhering to the skin better.
Is your blush streaking when you apply it? It’s not the product, it’s the application. Sounds like you’re running the blush brush across the blush, and then running the brush across your face. This way picks up bout 10x more blush than you need, and running the brush across your cheeks causes the streaking effect. An easier way to apply blush, and not go through it so fast, is to tap the brush on the blush about 3-4 times. Really, that’s all you need. Shake off any excess if needed. Then apply the blush by tapping the brush across your cheeks. The tapping motion applies and blends the product at the same time, eliminating the need to go back and blend afterwards. Do you need more? Just do it again. You’ll be surprise how little blush you really need.
Did you apply a blush that was too dark or bright? To ‘erase’, or tone down the color, take a powder brush with loose powder and apply over, or a dry makeup sponge with loose powder to erase even more off. Want to get rid of it entirely? Apply your moisturizer with a dry makeup sponge over it and the moisturizer will pick up and erase the color completely. You may have to reapply a little foundation, but this works best when the blush is too dark or bright.
Cream ( shown: Stila Convertible Color )
Cream offers the most natural looking ‘blush’ that you can find, but it usually fades after 3-4 hours, since the oils in the cream blush usually blend into the oils of your foundation and/or moisturizer.
Application Tool(s): Fingers
Cream blush blends best into moisturized skin and applied with your fingertips. It’s always better to apply a little at first, and then add more on if needed. Did you apply too much? Take your sponge and ‘erase’ any excess. For longer staying power, apply a touch of powder blush on top of your cream blush.
Gel blush has the greatest staying power of all blushes because of it’s ‘staining’ qualities. The bad part is that it also stains your fingers as well when you’re applying it. Use sponges for the easiest results, but be aware that the sponge will soak up some of the product.
Application Tool(s): Fingers, sponges
For a soft rosy glow, apply your gel blush underneath your foundation. For a stronger look, on top of your foundation, but before you’ve applied your powder. Did you get a color that’s too strong? Mix it with a little bit of moisturizer and then apply to cut down the intensity.
Stain ( shown: Lorac Sheer Wash )
The newest blush on the market are your liquid ‘stains’, such as the ever-popular “BeneTint” by Benefit Cosmetics. Packaged in a glass bottle with a ‘nail polish’ applicator brush, this product wins raves in the durability department, but can be tricky in the application itself.
Application Tool(s): Fingers, sponges
Since this product stains the quickest, apply on one cheek at a time and spot blend. Just smile, and apply 1-2 dots of your liquid color, then blend with fingertips or a sponge. If the stain dries too quickly for you, apply a dot of moisturizer as you apply and you’ll have more time to blend before the product stains.