The latest (but not necessarily the newest) look for cheeks is dewy,and cream blush is back. You’ll find a lot of new formulations so that colors go on softer, not so heavy or sticky as you may have remembered in the 70′s. For the easiest application, apply your foundation and concealer as normal, then skip the powder. Smile, and apply a dot on the apples of the cheeks.
Blush Application Tricks:
Alot of us still apply blush based on our face shape……you know, if your face is long do this, if it’s short do this. Rather than feeling stuck in only one technique and feeling like you have to ‘change’ your face, view your blush application as to what features you want to highlight!
Blush can really only go so far………
your guideline for blush is
- not below the line of the bottom of the nose……….(you’ll look cold)
- not pass the middle of the eye towards your nose………….(you’ll look sunburned)
- not beyond the arch of the eyebrow…………(when you’re going around the eye, you’ll look dirty!)
If applied beyond that, blush just looks ‘off’. You can apply blush all over (like forehead, nose, cheeks, and chin) if you’re going for a sun or bronzed look (which looks good if it’s not too much color or too bright), but if you want to get creative and highlight your features, you pretty much need to stay within the guidelines in order for blush to “contour” your face. Here are some tricks we do for photography to ‘change’ a person’s features:
1. To emphasize bone structure……….apply blush or contour underneath the cheekbone. Not sure where it is? Try this ’2 fingers’ technique. With your first two fingers, line one finger above your ear, the other below (if you cross your hand across your face……it’ll be easier!). Make sure the bottom finger is going horizontally across the face……………..If you apply your contour between the two fingers, you’ll always get in underneath the cheekbone………….want stronger cheekbones? After applying underneath the cheekbone, apply some more just in the temple. Keep the top of the cheekbone clean. The illusion of depth, highlight and then depth again will make the cheekbone stronger. Optical Illusion? By applying blush underneath the cheekbones, you make your face appear narrower, and you will create more attention to your hair! You’re actually drawing a line that leads the eye towards your hair style!!
This also works when applying blush on the apples of the cheeks and then applying the color strongly back towards the ear. You’ll still get the same ‘optical illusion’ line effect! Just note, you’ll also emphasize your nose more! (The line goes both ways!)
2. To make skin look clearer and emphasize your lipstick!…………. smile! And apply on the apples of your cheeks. Blend back, but don’t go any further than the end of the eye, or the actual apple of the cheek………by just keeping color on the front of the cheeks, you give the illusion of clearer skin, and you will also emphasize your lips by far!
3. To make your eyes stand out……………...I always tell this to clients that have a important meeting coming up, or they deal with people constantly. The most important thing in business and sales (and in life!) is eye contact! Every magazine editor will tell you that if they can get you to “look” at a cover at the model’s eyes, you’ll pretty much buy it. Why? Eye contact is powerful! Here’s a great optical illusion…………apply your blush starting near the outside corner of the eye, then go up to the temple, and then up on the forehead, as far as the arch of the eyebrow. You’re almost drawing a letter “C” around your eye. What this does is give the illusion of a half circle. What our eye tries to do is complete the circle by continuing around…………….around your eye! You create a stronger focus on the eye, and thus, more eye contact! It really does work!
If your blush is fading and streaking, it’s really not the product’s fault, but the application itself! If you find blush streaking, getting too much on, and alot of loose particles of blush flying off the blush, it’s really the application technique. To start, find a blush brush that perfectly fits the size of the apple of your cheek when you smile. Any bigger than that, and you’ll get blush near your mouth! You really don’t need a huge blush brush for color, those are for shiny powders and special effects! ………
Next, pick up your product by lightly tapping the blush with the tips of the brush. If sweeping across the color, you’ll pick up about 10 x more than what you need, and you waste alot of product! Blush has the strongest pigment, and a little goes along way! Just tap the ends of the bristles about 2-3 times on the color. Shake off any excess. Take a look, you should barely be able to see the color. You have enough on!
Then, don’t “sweep” or “stroke” the color across the cheeks. You’ll usually end up streaking the color on, and then having to go back to ‘correct’ and ‘blend’. What a waste of time! Instead, smile, and tap on gently going across your cheeks. By tapping the color onto the brush,and then tapping in on……..you’ll avoid excess color, streaking and more! Tapping on blends the color for you and you can always add more if you want.
Then, swipe your blush brush across a Kleenex to clean off any excess, or pick up your powder brush (with no extra powder on!) and sweep over and blend your blush into your skin. You’ll get a softer, more ‘real’ look to your blush. Blending really is key, but it helps if you don’t really have to blend that much in the first place!
OOPS! Okay, you look like a clown, wrong color, too much……..now what? Easy! Take a clean sponge with powder and try to erase as much off as possible. Too bright or too dark? Take a slightly damp foundation sponge (with water) and clean off as much as you can. The water will pick up and ‘dilute’ the color………it just may be enough to fix it and look ok!