The width & length of the entire face are the guideline for your actual face shape. Updated a little bit since the 60′s and 70′s where face shapes were considered oval, heart, oblong and so forth, face shapes are now so individualized, that we now consider it outdated to brand a face shape a certain ‘name’. So instead, I’d rather analyze the individual features that make us each unique, and leave the actual face shape alone.
For our first width/length guideline, (Line 1-4) you’ll have noticed that maybe one line was more prominent than the other. Did a line seem very long, or very wide? If you can’t tell either, than don’t worry about it. It’s neither!
Okay, what if it seems very long? Your ‘guideline’ for your bone structure is ‘vertical’, or up and down. To balance this line, focus on hairstyles that are emphasizing width, or focused on the sides of your face. Everyone knows that a hairstyle is the fastest way to change the bone structure of your face. Makeup wise, you can ‘create’ this vertical line by emphasizing the sides of your face. How? With blush! Focus on your cheekbones, and you’ll give the illusion of more width in your bone structure, because you’re subconsciously making one look at that area.
Too much width, or do you have a ‘horizontal’ guideline? (running across!) Then you do the exact opposite. You focus on the top and bottom of the face to balance out, as in the forehead (hint: bangs!), and the chin and lips.
Cheekbone Shadow is: STRONG | AVERAGE | SLIGHT
- from the top of the arch of the eyebrow,
- around the outside of the eye,
- in towards the middle of the eye.
- The next line is then the line that is below the nose.
Blush can be applied anywhere within these guidelines (usually not the whole area, but just a part of it),and if it’s beyond these guidelines, it looks off. For example, blush that is applied on the forehead past the arch of the eyebrow can make you look as if you have dirt on your face. Applied below the bottom of the nose, and you’ll look cold. Beyond the middle of the eye towards the nose, and you’ll look sunburned. A fun part about guidelines is that with each fashion season, makeup trends usually move around within the guidelines for a new look. What will be in next season? Just check and see what area hasn’t been done in awhile. To make it easy, here are the basic areas within the guidelines that we use for blush placement:
The “C” shape: from the 80′s to create that healthy look. Around the forehead to the arch of the eyebrow, down around the temple, and then down on top of the cheekbone. This pretty much covered the entire area!
Apples of the Cheek: Smile and your placement is right up front. Just make sure that you don’t go below the nose, or beyond the middle of the eye, or you’ll look bruised. This is a great placement to bring focus in on the middle of the face, and away from the “horizontal” lines of a strong jawbone or forehead.
Bone Structure: A great evening look, this placement goes right underneath the cheekbone for that sculptured look. Remember not to go below the bottom of the nose and not any further in than the outside of the eye. This placement emphasizes the width of the face, and brings out the cheekbone line even more.
Tops of the Cheekbone: Going along the top of the cheekbone, starting at the middle of the eye and going straight back towards the ear. This placement brings out the horizontal line of your bone structure, especially if you have strong cheekbones and jawbone.
Underneath the eye: A new placement that came into play a few seasons ago, this look resembles the geisha girl look, with blush applied literally under the outer corners of the eye. This actually brings out your eyes more than your cheeks, and it’s a whole new look that we’ll just have to see if it’ll stay around!
Jaw Line Shadow is: STRONG | AVERAGE | SLIGHT
Jawbone: Remember to look just at the shadow that’s by the ear. Not there? Than apply contour right under the ear and bring down about 1/4″ along the jawbone. Anymore than that and it’ll look like dirt. Emphasizing this area makes a weak jaw stronger and emphasizes horizontal lines more.
STRONG | RECEDING CHIN | AVERAGE
Weak chin? Than focus on softer colors for your lipstick. A strong chin and jaw? A strong lipstick will play it up.
Lip Line is: ROUND, STRAIGHT or CUPID’s BOW (both)
The guideline for the lips are within the lip line that you see. What you may not notice is that everyone has two lip lines, a brown one (the one that you can see),and a white one that’s right above it. Some are more noticeable than others, but it’s there. Want stronger or larger lips? Draw your lip line along the white line and it’ll look fine. It’s when you draw above that white line that you start to look like Bozo the clown.
Look at the shape of the mouth. Round? Straight? Cupid’s bow? I’m not a fan of drastically changing the shape of the mouth, but you can change the look of it based on the colors and placement. (Check our Lipstick chapter coming up!)
Top is: THIN | THICK | STRAIGHT | CROOKED
Bottom is: ROUND | SQUARE
Guidelines for the nose are broken down into the top of the nose and the bottom. The top half will appear thick, thin, crocked, or normal. Want a thinner nose? Apply a slight contour along the sides of the nose and stop when you get to the tear duct. There’s no need to apply contour all the way down the sides of the nose, unless you want someone to ask you if you got hit.
The bottom half the nose is usually the area that everyone wants to change. Is is straight? You’re in luck. Is it round? Then you might wish it was straight like a model. Trick of the trade, apply some contour just underneath the tip of the nose. That’s it. It’ll look not only straighter, but shorter too. Save contouring the sides of the bottom of the nose for when you’re having your pictures taken. And only then.